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Mark E. Industries battery accession allotment 1/2

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Mark E. Industries battery accession allotment 1/2

Mark E. Industries battery accession allotment 1/2

Mark E. Industries battery accession allotment 1/2

Mark E. Industries products for shower tile installation, including floor pitching, shower pan, curb, and liner: * Pre-Pitch * Quick-Pitch * Kirb-Perfect * String-a-level

Mark E. Industries battery accession allotment 1/2



Mark E. Industries battery accession allotment 1/2
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Where to Place Knobs on a Cabinet

Once you decide to change out cabinet hardware you might find the style you pick won't look that great if you try and replace the knobs in the same spots that the old ones were in. Well what to do? You certainly don't want to go back to the same boring old hardware. Instead you need a better understanding of your options for where to place knobs on a cabinet.

Where to Place Knobs on a Cabinet

Where to Place Knobs on a Cabinet

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Where to Place Knobs on a Cabinet

Where to Place Knobs on a Cabinet

The most obvious place to put a knob will be on a side opposite a hinge. The leverage allows you to open the door with almost no effort. This is great for those that might have a disability limiting their grip strength. The only exception to this rule is if you have roll out bottom cabinets, you know, the giant drawer types. Those you'll want to install the knobs centered on the cabinet to keep it from binding up on either side.

Well that gives you a rough idea of where to put the knobs but you probably need something a little bit more exact. Unfortunately there's no magic formula for where to place knobs on a cabinet. It's all going to come down to how the cabinets are designed and the size and shape of them and your kitchen.

There's a trick you can use to figure out where to place the knobs without just randomly drilling a bunch of holes into the cabinet face and hoping for the best. Head out to the hardware store and pick up a small tub of plumber's putty. Plumbers putty is a non-hardening compound that's slightly tacky. You can pull off little dollops of it then use it to just stick the knobs to the cabinet.

Here's what you'll do.

Open up the tub of Plumber's putty.

Pinch off a piece of putty about the size of the tip of your thumb.

Roll it into a ball.

Take the cabinet hardware and press the putty onto the back of it. Now you can just stick the knob onto the cabinet face wherever you think it will look right. Repeat this for a couple of the doors so you can get an overall feel for how the knobs will look sitting in a row. You can reposition the knobs just by popping them off the cabinet face and sticking them back on in a new spot.

Once you've figured out the right look for the cabinet you'll need to measure the knob offsets from the bottom and side edge of the cabinets. You can then use those measurements as a template for knob placement. Mark the offsets on each of the cabinets and double check to make sure they aren't slanting up or down.

The last thing to do is attach the hardware. Just drill the holes in the cabinet and slide a bolt through the hole and tighten the knobs down onto it. It's all a pretty simple job. Where to place knobs on a cabinet is a completely personal choice. You'll know what looks right once you get the knobs in position.

Where to Place Knobs on a Cabinet

How to Replace Your Bathtub Drain

Eventually the drain in your bathtub is going to get old and worn and won't work as it should any longer. This is especially true of drains with built-in stoppers. As time passes you'll start noticing that it's getting harder to operate the stopper, water seems to seep from the tub when the stopper is closed, and it's hard to get the dirty water to drain from the tub when the stopper is open. At this point in time you'll need to buy replacement parts for your drain and then either hire someone to install it or do the job yourself. It really isn't as difficult a job as it may sound. All you'll need are channel locks, a Philips screwdriver, plumbers' putty, and some clean rags.

How to Replace Your Bathtub Drain

How to Replace Your Bathtub Drain

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How to Replace Your Bathtub Drain

How to Replace Your Bathtub Drain

Begin the project by taking out the old drain plug mechanism. There is a cover plate on your tub which is attached with two screws. Take out the screws and remove the cover to reveal the inner workings of your drain. Reach in and pull this mechanism out through the hole in the tub.

If you're unable to remove all of the mechanism because pieces have broken off, you should check to see if you can access the space behind the tub from a wall panel on the other side of the wall. If you find one, you can remove it and easily take out the broken pieces. However, if you don't have one available, you will need to bend a wire hanger or similar piece of wire into a hook shape so that you'll be able to fish them out through the small hole.

Now that you have the original pieces of the drain, you'll be able to replace any damaged ones with your replacement parts and reassemble the drain. You may find that you don't even need replacement parts. Sometimes all the mechanism needs is to be cleaned and to have the pieces put back together correctly again.

Examine the parts to find the ones that are damaged. Then check to see if the replacement parts you purchased are identical to the ones you're removing. If they don't happen to be the same, it's not a good idea to go ahead and use them. Using the wrong parts in your plumbing could cause leaks that will flood your house.

Once you've reassembled the drain mechanism, check all the parts to be sure they're working properly. Next test the stopper to see that it fits the drain pipe and plugs it the way it should. If all these tests work out, you'll be ready to reinstall the pieces of your drain. Don't attempt to install the stopper until everything is working correctly.

You can use plumbers' putty to seal the joints where the pipes and flanges attach to one another. The mechanism that you use to raise and lower the stopper must also be attached to the overflow plate. Don't seal the overflow plate down, though, without checking to make sure that the stopper is working correctly. Once you know that the tub will hold and drain water when you want it to, go ahead and seal down the plate.

Make sure you have plenty of putty on the overflow plate when you screw it down. Wipe off any excess that might squeeze out, and check to see that you haven't got anything obstructing the overflow vent. Once you've completed these steps, your drain should be as good as new and ready to work for you again.

How to Replace Your Bathtub Drain

How to Fix a Tub Leak Like a Pro

Leaks from a bathtub can be frustrating to diagnose. There are several different possible sources for leaks at tubs and most of them are behind drywall. A leak could be from the valve, the shower head, the tub spout or the drain.

How to Fix a Tub Leak Like a Pro

How to Fix a Tub Leak Like a Pro

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How to Fix a Tub Leak Like a Pro

How to Fix a Tub Leak Like a Pro

Since each of these possible locations are different, it would be nice to isolate the problem. Before you start cutting drywall there are a few things you can do to try to narrow your choices. Then, even if you do have to cut drywall you will usually have to do less damage.

It Might Not Be A Leak

First, make very sure that the water is not just running down the corner of the tub past the shower curtain while your someone is taking a shower. Take a very close look at the wall and floor corners at both ends of the tub immediately after they are finished. Pay special attention to the end the shower head is on. I have seen many "leaks" that wound up being caused by water running over the edge of the tub. Enough people have this problem that you can but special little dams that stick in the corner on the tub to block the water.

If you are sure this isn't the problem the next step is to determine whether the leak is from the valve or from the drain.

Water Lines or Drain?

If the leak is constant, even when the tub has not been used, it is a leak on the hot or cold water line. These are under constant pressure and will leak continuously if they are the problem.

If it doesn't leak all the time, it's not from the hot or cold connections. If it only leaks after use you can rule these two connections out and start elsewhere..

The Bucket Test

The easiest thing to check first is the drain side. You don't want to run the faucet because that will screw up this test. Fill a bucket up from another bathroom and use this to fill the tub. I know that's a pain in the neck but it's necessary.

Once the tub is full let it sit for 30 minutes or so and see if the leak shows up. If so, it is from the tub drain. Drain the water and fix the drain. It probably just needs to be removed and re puttied. Clear silicone, though harder to clean up, works great instead of putty.

Pull The Plug

If no leak shows up while the tub is full go ahead and drain the tub, again checking for leaks. If you see a leak now the problem is in the drain piping. You will need to cut drywall to find and repair this. You can start at the wet spot, but you may find that the water has run across the top of the drywall and the spot isn't directly under the leak.

The Water Piping

If no leak shows up from the first test, that leaves the tub spout piping and the shower head riser and connection. The two most likely places to check for a leak are the shower riser and connection and the tub spout piping and connection.

The first thing to do is to pull the escutcheon (trim ring) at the shower head and see if you can see the connection inside the wall. You may have to open the hole a little, just enough so you can see but it will still be covered by the escutcheon. Now run the shower head while looking at the connection with a flashlight.

The Old Toilet Paper Trick

If you can't see it very good, wrap some toilet paper around the end of a screwdriver and hold it under the connection for a minute. Check and see if the paper is wet. If so, or if you can see a leak, you've found the problem. Take the shower head off, stick the handle of your pliers in the end of the bent pipe coming out of the wall and remove the pipe. Put some new teflon tape on the threads, screw it back in and check for leaks.

If you don't find a leak here check the tub spout. If you have the kind of tub spout with a diverter you have to pull to make the water go to the shower head it could be leaking where it connects to the piping and water could be running back into the wall. This is kind of hard to see but some brands have a small opening on the bottom side of the spout to tighten the spout clamp. You can use the toilet paper trick here too. If there is no opening you can try to unscrew the spout and see if the piping behind it is wet. If none of this works you may need to cut drywall behind the tub to really check it out (if you can get to it).

The Last Resort

If you try all of this and still can't find the leak the next step is to start cutting drywall. However, if you can find the source of the leak this way you may be able to fix it yourself and save some money. Even if you don't feel comfortable doing this, you will at least be able to let the plumber know what you've done and minimize the cost of the repair.

How to Fix a Tub Leak Like a Pro

Plumbing Professors Radio Show Oct. 18, 2011 Part 4/4

Plumbing Professors Radio Show Oct. 18, 2011 Part 4/4 Video Clips. Duration : 9.30 Mins.

No Extra Charges NIGHTS, WEEKENDS, or HOLIDAYS...EVER Welcome to Plumbing Professors® residential, commercial or industrial, we're here to assist you with all your plumbing, sewer or drain problems. From cleaning a drain to installing a toilet. Listen in at 1270AM WXYT every Sunday @ 10am Plumbing Professors 1-800-654-1300 or www.plumbingprofessors.com Service Areas: Detroit, Columbus, Flint, Grand Rapids, & Toledo

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How to Install a Garbage Disposal

How to Install a Garbage Disposal Tube. Duration : 3.90 Mins.

New garbage disposals offer many new features, including quieter operation, increased grind capacity, and easier installation. When it is time to replace a garbage disposal, follow these step-by-step instructions that will help remove an old disposer and install a new garbage disposer. To begin, turn off power to the garbage disposer at the electrical box. If your disposer plugs into the wall, unplug it. Shut off the water lines to the sink. Before dismantling the old disposer and plumbing, take a photo of the old setup for reference in installing the new unit. Place a bucket or basin under the disposer and adjacent plumbing to catch any water. Identify the discharge tube that leads off of the disposer and disconnect it. Disconnect the dishwasher drain, if applicable. Identify the mounting collar that holds the top of the garbage disposer to the bottom of the sink. Loosen and remove the mounting collar with a disposer wrench, which is typically included with your unit. If the garbage disposer is hard-wired, lay the unit on its side and locate the electrical cover plate. Disconnect the wires, and then remove the unit. Inspect all parts that attach the garbage disposer to the sink. If in good condition, the replacement unit may be installed using these parts. If not, first loosen the mounting screws. Then, pry the snap ring out to release the mounting ring. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the backup flange and gasket. Remove the sink flange from above the sink. Clean ...

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Bath bore removed and rebuilt 10 of 10

Bath bore removed and rebuilt 10 of 10 Video Clips. Duration : 2.08 Mins.

www.plumberx.comHello this is PlumberX. People always ask me what gave you the idea and what made you create these how to plumbing videos? Coming up with the idea was easy. After many years as a plumber and servicing customers at there home I've seen a lot of people in tuff situations, people that could not afford a plumber, people that didn't have time to wait for a plumber to come to there home and make repairs, hearing horror stories of Plumbers that have rip off costumers and gave bad service, to me this was a loud cry for help. One story come to mind; A friend of mine calls me and ask, PlumberX could you do me a favor and help this older lady that I know, and go by and look at her Plumbing, she needs plumbing work really bad but she's to scared to call a plumber because of the cost, and she know that if I send you over there to check out the plumbing she can trust me as a friend recommending you, sure I said I could do that. The next day came and I went to the older lady's home she came to the door with a pleasant smile very humble. I could see it in her eye's she didn't have to say a word ( What is this going to cost ) she was very polite and courteous. Sir would you like some thing to drink and I do appreciate you coming to check out my plumbing on such short notice. No problem mam, lets see what's going on here with your plumbing. This way Sir in the kitchen. As I walk through the home I saw in the corner of my eye younger children around 3, 5 and 6 years of age ...

Keywords: Thehomedepot, Lowe's, acehardware, truevalue, plumberx, plumber, plumbing, youtube, google, tools, copper, pipe, Moen, Delta, Pricepfister, hotwaterheater, tankless, gerber, faucet, toilet, sink, drain, ridgid, PVC, garbage, disposal, gas, water, hot, cold, pex, toto, crane, Americanstandard, rheem, Aosmith, Bradfordwhite, leak, repairs, diy, howto, pvcglue, tubandshower, tub, shower, ptrap, twitter, myspace, videos, free, instructions, gadgets, how-to, home video

Installing A Kitchen Faucet

Before You Begin:

Installing A Kitchen Faucet

Installing A Kitchen Faucet

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Installing A Kitchen Faucet

Installing A Kitchen Faucet

Observe all local plumbing and building codes. Shut off the water supplies. Before installation, unpack the new faucet and inspect it for damage. Return the faucet to the carton until you are ready to install it. Carefully inspect waste and supply tubing for any sign of damage and replace if necessary. For new installations, assemble the faucet to the sink before installing the sink. If supply tubes must be cut, allow for required penetration into shut-off valve.

1. Install the Spout and Handspray

NOTE: Before applying plumbers putty or other sealant to the escutcheon, make sure the o-ring is in place in the groove on the interior surface. Apply a bead of plumbers putty or other sealant to the underside of theescutcheon according to the manufacturer's instructions. Thread the shank nut and washer to the bottom of the shank. Insert the shank from the bottom of the sink. Slide the escutcheon over the shank. Thread the spout to the bottom of the shank, then loosen the spout 1/8 of a turn. Loosen the shank 1/8 of a turn. Important! Do not loosen the shank more than 1/2 turn. The spout may not seal, resulting in a leak. Tighten the nut and washer to secure the spray holder to the sink. Slide the gasket (provided) onto the spray holder. Slide the spray holder through the mounting hole from above. Securely hand tighten the nut to the spray holder from under the sink. Insert the hose through the handspray spray holder. Attach the hose to the shank handspray tee using thread sealant.

2. Installthe Valve Body

Apply thread sealant to the coupling nut threads of the flexible hoses. Thread the flexible hoses to the valve body outlets and wrench tighten. Do not over tighten. Apply a bead of plumbers putty or other sealant to the underside of the escutcheons according to the manufacturer's instructions. Insert the valve bodies into the mounting holes from the top of the sink. Make sure the hot valve body is installed in the left-hand hole and the cold valve body is installed in the right-hand hole. Install a washer and then a nut to the bottom of the valve bodies. Align the valve bodies so the copper tubing faces the outside. Wrench tighten the nuts. Remove any excess plumbers putty. Connect and wrench tighten the hoses to the shank tee. Do notover tighten.

3. Install the Handles

Set the valve stem to the closed position by rotating the stem counterclockwise until it stops. Thread the bonnet onto the escutcheon. Insert the stem extension into the bonnet and press it onto the valve stem. Lever Handles Properly align the lever handle. Press the lever handle onto the stem extension. Secure the lever handle with the screw. Six-Prong Handles Secure the stem extension with the screw. Press the handle onto the stem extension with the text on the ceramic button properly aligned. Secure the handle with the setscrew.

4. Install the Supplies

NOTE: If the sink is not installed, install it at this time. Be sure to follow all instructions packed with the sink. Slide the coupling nuts and ferrules onto the supplytubes. Secure the supply tubes and valve body inlets with coupling nuts. Carefully insert the supply tubes into the valve body inlets and shut-off valve outlets (if used). Position the round end of the supply tube squarely to the valve body inlet and supply stop. Tighten the coupling nuts.

5. Installation Checkout

Ensure that both faucet handles are turned off. Hot is clockwise close and cold is counterclockwise close. Turn on the hot and cold water supplies. Check for leaks. Remove the aerators by turning it counterclockwise. Turn on the hot and cold faucet handles for one minute to flush debris from the faucet. Close the hot and cold faucet handles. Reattach the aerators by turning it clockwise until hand tight.

Installing A Kitchen Faucet

PLUMBERS PUTTY

PLUMBERS PUTTY Video Clips. Duration : 1.17 Mins.

VISIT OUR WEBSITE! DunbarPlumbing.com OR OUR PLUMBING FORUM! DunbarPlumbingForums.com NORTHERN KENTUCKY PLUMBERS The video shows firsthand how plumbers putty can break down over a short period of time and causes leaks at connecions that need to stay waterproof. Putty can also cause problems with synthetic marble or granite, plastic or composite whereby the ILO basis of plumbers putty can slowly leach into the sink's surface and causes issues with staining or material breakdown. Often, plumbers will recommend a "new" type of plumbers putty that is not damaging to the above type of sinks. Too often with both products, the material hardens over a short time and does not perform the function that the product should provide, at least as long as the disposal/strainer or any other type ofinstallation is involved. For some areas across the nation and the globe, plumbers putty is a code requirement. Proper amounts of putty when used is crucial, most times issues arise from using too much putty which can cause leaks over time. We welcome any questions or opinions on this video, we are sure that people will argue the benefits of putty as it is a hotly debated topic on plumbing forums across the internet. Dunbar Plumbing for a number of years used plumbers putty but the reasonable choice these days for reliability is silicone sealant. A product that aging along quite well and is resistant to water simply by it's chemical makeup. Contact Dunbar Plumbing @ 859-359-4833 to schedule ...

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Stainless Plumber's Putty

Stainless Plumber's Putty

Stainless Plumber's Putty

Product Specifications

Part Number 43010

Item Package Quantity1

Item Dimensions

Weight16 Ounces

Length11.62 inches

Width8.98 inches

Height7.45 inches

Stainless Plumber's Putty

Product Features

• WM Harvey
• 43010
• Putty

Stainless Plumber's Putty

Product Description

Wm Harvey 043010 Stainless Plumber's Putty Wm Harvey 043010 Stainless Plumber's Putty Features:;Never hardens, cracks, Stainless Plumber's Putty or crumbles-even if can is left open;Professional grade for setting bowls, rims, strainers, faucets, and more;Meets Fed. Spec. HH-C-536;Plastic cans;043010: 14 oz;043050: 3 lbs Stainless Plumber's Putty

Stainless Plumber's Putty